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More Testaccio Treats PDF Print E-mail
Mar 19, 2009 at 04:25 PM


The story goes that Giuseppe and Bernardina Giolitti creamery in Rome's Salita del Grillo was so successful that Mrs. Giolitti decided each of her eight children should have a creamery of his or her own. One of these is the long famous Giolitti gelateria downtown in Via del Vicario, down the street from the Chamber of Deputies. Another was Giolitti in Testaccio's Via Amerigo Vespucci which looks more or less as it did decades ago and still produces homemade ice cream that is lusciously creamy with flavours ranging from marron glacè coffee and hazelnut to malaga and the mouthwatering zabaione. Giolitti, via Amerigo Vespucci 35 (tel.06.5746006). Open 7a.m. to midnight.

OR you can stop by the Cafe" du Parc in the small park to the left of Porta San Paolo and taste one of their delicious "cermolatte"s, a sort of milk shake, which cime in various flavours, especially lots of delicious fruits.


By now most tourists know about Volpetti, the smallish, crowded and amazingly stocked delicatessen on Via Marmorata where you can find cheeses from every part of the world, a profusion of sausages and salamis that is almost overwhelming, antipasti of every type, from olives and pickles to smoked fish and cheese spreads as well as homemade breads of many shapes and sizes, torte rustiche that can be made to order, crostate and cakes, wines and spirits, specialty jams, honeys, vinegars and olive oils. Claudio and Emilio Volpetti have created a wonderland of gastronomic delight that will leave the visitor gasping. One word of caution. Volpetti staff (the rumour is they work on commission) use a soft, hard-sell technique (taste this, taste that!) which more often than not finds you taking home much more than you'd planned and spending (this place is NOT cheap) a small fortune.,
Volpetti. Via Marmorata 47, tel. 06 5742352 : Open daily (except Sundays) from 8 to 14 and 17 to 20


Volpetti Più
Be aware that Volpetti also does catering (see the Piatti Pronti section on their website, and that since 1996 it has a cafeteria-style tavola calda around the corner on Via Alessandro Volta. Here you can eat excellent pasta or second courses, contorni and pizzas for lunch or dinner as well as do takeaway for a meal at home. Prices here are pretty much in scale with other takeaways but the food is definitely a cut above. Volpetti Più, Via Alessandro Volta 8, tel. 06 5742352 is open six days a week from 10,30 to15,30 and from 17,30 alle 21,30. In August it closes for the day at 15:30.

00100 Pizza

This pizzeria has taken pizza one step further than most. Located in the heart of Testaccio, just a half a block away from piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice and the church of the same name, this deceptively anonymous hole in the wall sells filled pizza triangles it calls "trapizzini" (the word comes from a combo of pizza e tramezzini) where the fillings take their inspiration from the local cuisine and include coda alla vaccinara, tripe meatballs and coratella, seppie e piselli and chicken with bell peppers. Yikes!. There are of course "normal" pizzas ans also arancini and supplì galore, not to mention an exceptional selection of beers for the now-desperately thirsty to guzzle.
00100 Pizza, Via Giovanni Branca 88, tel. 0643419624. Open 12 to 22. Closed Sundays.

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